BowlQuest - Better Bowling from Better Answers

The Basics of Problem Approaches

2009-07-20T15:55:00.003-04:00

The Basics of Problem Approaches

Intended Audience: All bowlers ending their approach with a slide

The Problem

It has happened to just about every bowler who has ever played the game or sport of bowling: problem approaches. Whether they are too sticky or too slick, bowlers risk injury, low score, and bad habits as a result of not being able to slide "normally".

The biggest concern is injury. Bowlers that stick bad enough can tear a knee ligament, quadracept, or ankle. Bowlers that slide too much risk a pulled groin, hamstring, or strained abdominal muslces. In either case, the bowler may end up going over the foul line, slipping on the lane conditioner, falling, and hurting any number of body parts. Anyone that's been around bowling long enough has stories related to these accidents.

Another concern is low scores. Any time a bowler is taken out of the normal flow of their physical game - and footwork is a huge part of that - it impacts that bowler's ability to perform. Beyond that, the bowler must operate out of a comfort zone both physically and mentally. Bowlers that know they are going to "stick" are often cursed before they even step on the approach because they are afraid of sticking. The same is true for sliding too much.

Finally, if a bowling on problem approaches lasts long enough, the bowler may adjust by doing any number of actions that result in bad habits. For example, a bowler that is sliding too much may slow their footwork without the proper corresponding change in pushaway and release timing. If enough repetitions are performed, the timing and pushaway problem become part of the bowler's game and can lead to a slump.

Why do Approaches Change?

There are a number of reasons why approaches change: from bowling center to bowling center or even in the same bowling center from day to day, week to week, or even shot to shot. The biggest two culprits are foreign substances and humidity.

Here, the term "foreign substances" is used loosely to mean dust, goo, gum, tar, powder, rosin, water, lane conditioner, rubber from a bowling shoe heel, etc; basically anything on the approach other than the bowler. Some of these substances, such as powder and dust, make the approaches slippery. Other substances, such as rosin and water, make the approaches tacky/sticky. Water may be counter-intuitive, but usually water soaks into the sole of the shoe and creates a sucking, vacuum-like effect with the approach when a bowler attempts to slide. Clean approaches generally work the best. Bowling centers should regularly clean and buff their approaches.

Humidity is another factor, especially in parts of the world where both humidity and temperature can vary widely over the course of a year. Like with water on the approach, if it is humid enough in the bowler center, water in the air also eventually soaks into the pores of the approach and the soles of bowlers' shoes. It seems few bowling centers invest in a dehumidifier these days. Generally speaking, the more humid the bowling center the stickier the approaches and the less humid the bowling center the less sticky the approaches.

Lane construction is also a major factor. Wood approaches tend to allow for a better slide. Wood doesn't seem to be as affected by humidity, most likely because of the grooves in the wood versus the pores in synthetic approaches. Synthetic approaches are tackier. Some of the newer, more porous synthetics seems to be better, but are still more prone to humidity.

Check Shoes and Environment

Whenever you encounter a problem with the approach, the first thing you should do is check your shoes and if no problems are found there then check the environment.

The soles of bowling shoes need to be kept clean and dry to provide a consistent slide. The biggest enemy of a good slide is liquid. It's counter-intuitive, but wet bowling shoes will reduce a bowler's slide and make the bowler stick. Dust and dry debris can cause a slip or longer slide. Keep the sole clean.

If nothing appears to be wrong with the shoes, check the environment. Is there liquid on the approach? Is the roof leaking? (I've seen this happen plenty of times) Is there a foreign substance on the approach? It's better to ask someone at the front desk to send someone down to clean the approach than it is to risk injury.

In the case of powder - Easy Slide, Baby Powder, whatever - another bowler on the same lane(s) can be the source. Unfortunately, this is one of the areas the USBC needs a clearer rule. There is one place the rule is clear: shoes must not leave any residue on the lane. From the USBC web site

http://www.bowl.com/rules/mythbusters.aspx

QUOTE: USBC’s only rule relating to shoes is Rule 12, “Approaches Must Not Be Defaced.” Rule 12 prohibits soft rubber soles and heels that rub off the approach. Today, many bowlers are wearing a tennis shoe on the push-away foot to give more momentum and keep from sliding. Tennis shoes that do not leave a residue on the approach may be worn. Bowling centers, leagues and tournaments may have their own rules regarding the use of bowling shoes.

If another bowler is placing something on their shoes and the shoes then leave a residue on the lane, the bowler is violating this rule.

Unfortunately, there will be times when there is nothing wrong with your shoes and nothing apparently wrong with the environment. Humidity or simply a bad wood/synthetic surface may be the problem. In that case, a bowler has only one option: adjust.

Equipment Adjustments

A good set of bowling shoes and some related equipment can help bowlers avoid most unpleasant approach problems.

Consider purchasing a pair of shoes that supports interchangeable soles, especially if you regularly bowl in a number of different bowling centers. Each different sole provides a different level of slide/stop. Sometimes, adjusting to a humid bowling center is as simple as changing the sole of the shoe.

Even shoes with non-interchangeable soles made by different companies have different levels of slide/stop. Unfortunately, there's no way to really know unless you try them and there aren't many places that will let you try before you buy with bowling shoes. Don't be afraid to own more than one pair of shoes from more than one manufacturer.

Another tool that can help with tacky approaches is the slide sock. Not to be confused with a shoe cover (discussed next) a slide sock is typically made from felt or some other soft material and is worn over the slide shoe, help in place by an elastic band. It is similar to having another sole that can be added to any bowling shoe to promote a longer slide. I don't specifically endorse this product, but the web site will give you an idea of what a slide sock looks like and how it can help: http://www.bowlersslidesock.com/home.htm

The best of shoes will not work correctly if they get dirty or wet. Shoes that have gotten dirty can be fixed using a dry towel to remove dust or gritty materials. A stiff wire brush can be used to remove gunk and goo. If shoes get wet enough, they become unusable and a hazard to other bowlers on the same lane(s). Here is where an ounce of prevention is worth a pound a cure. When wearing bowling shoes, watch where you step. Consider buying a shoe cover. These elastic socks go over the bowling shoe to keep them dry and clean when walking around. Bowling shoes should never be worn outside the bowling center.

A note on the use of a wire brush:
Typically bowlers use these when they are having a problem not sliding enough. I've been told that if the shoes are brushed front to back, it will help produce a longer slide and if brushed side to side, it will help produce a shorter slide. I've tried both and haven't noticed a difference between the two, but a brushed sole almost always (regardless of direction) helps promote a longer slide. Most pro shops carry wire brushes made for this purpose, but you can likely also find one at the local discount store.

A note on the use of EZ Slide/Easy Slide:
This has been a topic of hot debate in some circles. My take on it is simple - if one bowler who is having problems sliding should be allowed to use powder (or whatever they would like) on the soles of their shoes to help them slide - regardless of the consequences to other bowlers on the same lane(s) - then another bowler on the same pair should be allowed to use pine tar (or whatever) on the bottom of their soles to prevent them from sliding too much. To illustrate, "Bob" and "Mike" are bowling on the same pair of lanes. "Bob" is having a problem sliding and "Mike" is not. "Bob" decides to use Easy Slide and it works great, but he leaves a residue of powder on the approach. "Mike" bowls next, slides through the residue, and keeps on sliding too far and ends up over the foul line. If "Bob" has done nothing wrong, "Mike" should be able to apply a liberal amount of pine tar to his shoes on his next shot.

The problem with this logic - arguing either way - should be obvious. Given free reign, bowlers would quickly degenerate the approaches into a cesspool. In my opinion, both "Bob" and "Mike" are wrong. It seems the USBC agrees. That's why the USBC rule reads that it is illegal for shoes to leave any residue on the lane. Too often bowlers will put whatever they think they need on the bottom of their shoe and the rest of the bowlers on the same lane(s) be damned! That is a churlish, inconsiderate, and unsportsmanlike attitude.

Conclusions

While bowling is a physical activity, it is generally a safe activity as long as the approaches are in good shape. When it becomes difficult to slide "normally" injury and other negative results can occur. If this happens, check your shoes and the environment and eliminate anything that can cause problems. However, there are times when there is nothing wrong with shoes or environment and you must adjust to the poor condition. Be prepared! Keep your shoes clean and dry and invest in equipment that will help you adjust to problem approaches.

Bowl well!

Coaching Myths

2009-06-22T15:12:00.013-04:00

Coaching Myths

Intended Audience: Everyone

Why Bust This Myth?

Recently, I was perusing one of my favorite online bowling discussion sites. There was a topic started by a bowler who was returning to bowling after a 5-6 year absence. The bowler had success with a coach in the past and was contemplating using a coach again.

The first 6 replies to the post can be summarized as follows: you don't need a coach. Each response gave a different reason why a bowler doesn't need a coach. While "you don't need a coach" can be a valid statement, the reasons given in the responses to this particular post were a bunch of myths.

I respect that the replies only intended to help. However, the reasoning behind the replies was flawed. There are probably thousands of other bowlers out there who have considered coaching for any number of reasons. The concept is not limited to bowling.

Myth: Elite Bowlers Don't Use Coaches

This statement is often heard from self-proclaimed "elite" bowlers. It's a load of manure. There seems to be a stigma in modern culture that if you seek help from another person it somehow makes you inferior, week, or somehow lacking. That is also a load of manure. Everyone needs help at one time or another. Bowlers are no different.

To debunk the myth, let's start at the top with the Professional Bowlers Association (PBA) professionals. People seem to think that these highly skilled and highly successful players don't need the help of a coach. At the very least, people seem to think that these top players may have used a coach in the past, but they don't need a coach anymore.

The fact is that most of the top professionals regularly seek the help of a coach.

We hear it right from the players' mouths. Witness the number of times on a PBA telecast that the winner looks directly into the camera and thanks his/her coach; the same coach the telecast commentators talk about helping the winner get his/her game back on track. I've had the forture to personally interact with several of the currently exempt PBA members and have talked to each about their practice and coaching schedules.

We also hear it from the coaches. Consider John Jowdy, the only coach (thus far) inducted into both the USBC and PBA Hall of Fame. In his book, Bowling Execution, Coach Jowdy talks about helping a large number of top-level professionals over the years while they're out on tour. There's also Doctor Dean Hinitz. He is generally considered the grandfather of bowling psychology. The proloague of his book "Focused for Bowling" is written by Brian Voss, a PBA Hall of Famer. In the prologue Mr. Voss describes at length how much help he has received and how grateful he is for getting that help from coach Hinitz. Two of North America's top coaches, Len Mal and Ron Clifton, have both described to me coaching sessions they've had with top professional bowlers. Another top coach, Mike Jasnau, has videotaped lessons with top professionals.

We read about it in bowling publications. US Bowler magazine consistently mentions coaching and training regimens for the top bowling schools such as Wichita State as well as for the national teams like Team USA. Bowling This Month magazine features articles that discuss problems the pros have overcome and how they were overcome with the help of good coaching.

Why do the best bowlers in the world take lessons? Like everyone else, top players experience slumps and down times in performance. They know where to get help when they need it. The "I'm a tough guy, I don't need help" mentality did not get these players to the top and doesn't factor into their continued success.

It amazes me that there are self-proclaimed "elite" bowlers who believe themselves to be better than the top professionals simply by not needing a coach. Maybe that's why we never see those self-proclaimed "elite" bowlers competing for a major title or making a living bowling.

Myth: The Best Bowlers Fix Themselves

Without a doubt, the best bowlers can fix what they are doing wrong. They do it on a daily basis, making the correct physical and mental adjustments to their game. However, even the best bowlers fall into slumps or at least have periods where they struggle more than others. Why? Because they miss something that starts to go wrong, they depart from the path of bowling success down a detour to troubled performance. To understand that, one must understand what causes a slump.

A slump is caused by doing something consistently wrong over a period of time. Most often it is something small that creeps into our game at an abnormal time. Maybe we've strained our sliding leg and favor it slightly by decreasing knee bend at the line. Left unnoticed, over time this small flaw can grow into a larger flaw: we decrease the knee bend a little more and a little more until our balance at the line suffers. That's simple enough to understand. Slumps are ended when the problem is corrected or overcome. That's also simple enough to understand. So why do the best bowlers, if they can self-diagnose and correct, have slumps? It's because they miss a flaw that creeps into their game and become a larger and larger problem over time as it affects other parts of their game.

If a bowler is regularly observed by a coach's trained eye, minor flaws can be caught before they develop into major flaws resulting in a slump. Even a bowling friend who is familiar with another bowler's game can keep an eye out for changes. However, will that friend also know how to fix the problem? Maybe, maybe not. Which leads us to the next myth.

As an aside, even a friend who just "helps out" from time to time in a productive fashion can be considered a coach. Maybe not a professional coach, but does it matter more that the help is successful or does the status of the source matter more?

Myth: All You Need is a Video Camera

A video camera represents an unbiased view of a bowler's mechanics. They are valuable tools in spotting problems in a bowler's physical mechanics especially since they can be played in slow-motion and freeze-framed to isolate specific incidents. With the cost of video camera constantly decreasing, more bowlers are able to use the technology to advantage. They are doubtless a huge help in spotting one or more problems.

It is often suggested to keep video of a bowler when the bowler is bowling well. It can then be compared to video taken when the bowler is not bowling well. That's good advice. It should be easier to spot when the bowler is doing something wrong. The operative phrase is "should be". The person watching the video tape must know what to look for and must be able to recognize differences that could result in poor performance versus better performance. Just because there is something different observed in the current video when compared to the video taken when the bowler is bowling well doesn't mean the something different is causing bad results.

Few bowlers spend much time watching and correcting other bowlers' games. Because of that, few bowlers have a coaches trained eye to diagnose a problem when it is seen and identify the root cause. Also, many bowlers will simply not be honest enough with themselves to admit a flaw when they see it. A coach has no interest in lying to a student about something that is wrong. The coach has less emotional attachment to a student's game than the student, so the coach can be more unbiased.

Consider an exception: the bowler in question is capable of spotting what is truly wrong, honest with him/herself that there is a problem, and can identify the root cause. Wonderful. Fantastic. Now what? The bowler knows what is wrong. Assume for a moment it is a new bad habit, one that the bowler has never dealt with before. How does that bowler fix it? They've never been able to do it in the past because they've never done it in the past. What is the best and quickest way to overcome the problem? Trial and error? That will work over time, but what if another new bad habit is acquired while attempting to fix the original flaw? Would you go to a surgeon who operated like that? "I don't know what's actually involved with removing a brain tumor Mr. Smith, but I'm willing to give it a whirl with this hacksaw and plunger over here." I don't think so.

Good coaches typically work with a range of students who have a wide variety of challenges to overcome. Coaches gain experience in helping different people fix different problems with different solutions. It is easy enough to understand that what works for one person doesn't necessarily work for another. So not only can coaches observe and recognize problems faster, they can help the bowler fix the problems faster.

There's one other point to make here: a video camera tells us nothing about what is going on in the bowler's head. A bowler can execute one shot and fall on his face while focusing on a flawless swing, perfect release, and smooth delivery. The same bowler can execute a shot while focusing on a flawless swing, perfect release, and smooth delivery and fall on his face while thinking about a chocolate chip ice cream cone. Both shots look identical to a video camera.

Coaches also help with the mental game. Things like positive visualization, confidence, and staying in the moment are concepts as foreign to a video camera as the concepts of astrophysics is to a rhinoceros.

Myth: All Coaches are the Same

"Coaches just want to change you."
"Coaches want you to do something different."
"Coaches want to fit you into a mold."

We often hear these statements made about coaches. Why?

Consider a patient who complains to his doctor of daily headaches. As the doctor delves into the patient's background, the doctor finds out that the patient has a habit of snorting airplane glue for a couple of hours every day. After some tests, the doctor is able to determine that the headaches are being caused by the glue. Should the doctor recommend the patient take a few aspirin every day or recommend that the patient stop snorting airplane glue?

Of course coaches want their students to change things. A fear of change is understandable. Most of us fear change at some level. However, change is the only way a student improves. When someone persists in doing something the same way over and over and expects a different result, we generally label that person "insane". To quote PBA member Robert Smith, aka "Maximum Bob" from an article in Bowling This Month magazine, "If you want to improve, you must be willing to change." Continuing to snort the glue isn't going to cure the headaches; neither is not taking the aspirin.

Good coaches understand that the key to good performance in bowling is repetition. A good coach is not going to suggest a change for something that is working for the student - something that the student can repeat over and over. There is room for improvement for everyone: at the very least, small things that could be better or things that make it difficult for the bowler to repeat over and over from start to finish. It is in that space that good coach will suggest changes.

Notice the repetition of the word good. Not all coaches are created equal. Some are more adept at working with beginning bowlers. Others are more adept at working with advanced bowlers. Finding a good coach is a completely separate article. The point that needs to be made is this: don't just all coaches from the experience with one or two bad coaches. Like bowlers, they are not all the same. Each bowler must find a coach who can relate things in a way that the bowler can understand, encourage the bowler to improve in a positive fashion, and provide positive corrective measures to help the bowler improve. Not every coach can help every bowler.

It should be mentioned that a coach can not and should not always be judged by his/her students. Each student has a different level of "coachability". Like the original example, some students will just take the aspirin and others will stop snorting the glue. The person taking the aspirin, so to speak, is not likely to make the coach look good or recommend the coach to others.

Conclusion

There are many myths that surround coaching most of which are related to our common fear of change. When looked at individually, these myths don't stand up to closer inspection.

Coaches offer an trained, knowledgeable, external point of view that can not only recognize a problem but identify the root cause of a problem and suggest solutions. They understand that there is no "one size fits all" solution, that each bowler is different, and what works for one bowler might not work for another. A good coach will treat each bowler uniquely, tailoring improvements to the bowler. Coaches also help improve a bowler's mental game, something that can't be seen on a video camera. True "elite" bowlers continue to use coaches to avoid slumps and as a shortcut to success.

While it is difficult to generalize and say "every bowler needs a coach" it is at least equally wrong to say "no one needs a coach".

Bowl well!

The Importance of Proper Fit

2009-05-29T16:39:00.002-04:00

Intended Audience: Everyone who owns their own equipment

Inspiration

Most of the bowlers I meet own their own equipment. More than 90% of that equipment doesn't fit the bowler who owns it. Sometimes, that's the fault of the pro shop, but much more often, it is the fault of the bowler. Either the bowler just doesn't know any better or the bowler doesn't seem the importance of a proper fit. Bowlers will tell me "it fits just fine" while they pick at a thumb blister or complain about wrist pain.

In the past, I was just like these other bowlers. My bowling hand thumb is permanently disfigured from poorly fit balls. I have permanent nerve damage at the base of my thumb. I've bowled with wrist pain and joint pain. I've literally bled on the lanes. All caused by an improperly fitted bowling ball. All completely unnecessary.

With the correct knowledge, overcoming these problems was simple: get equipment that fits and use it properly. I've done it, and now bowl pain free with no physical discomfort. If I can do it, anyone can do it if they just see the benefits.

Are there people who don't see the benefits? Yes. You might be asking yourself at this point "who would want to bowl in pain?" or "who would want to do permanent damage to their body for bowling?". Many bowlers may not want to, but they do. Apparently, the fear of changing something in their bowling game that would temporarily lower their average a few pins is scarier than the fear of a torn thumb or nerve damage. It doesn't make sense, but we're not always the most rational of creatures.

As an aside, using a house ball is not an option for the serious bowler. House balls might get close, but they'll never fit correctly.

The Domino Effect

Aside from the potential of physical harm, an poorly fitting bowling ball will actually have a negative effect on a bowlers score. Sometimes it is a small effect, sometimes a big effect. The scale is not directly relational, meaning if your equipment is only slightly off, the decrease in score will be slight. It doesn't always work that way.

The physical act of bowling can be seen as a step-by-step (literally!) process. In simple terms, the bowler stands on the approach, starts the ball in motion, moves towards the pins, releases the ball, and hopefully follows through. The bowler typically puts her/his hand in the bowling ball before this all starts, so think of it almost as a pre-step.

Problems in the physical act of bowling create a sort of chain-reaction that create other problems further along. For example, if the bowler starts the ball in motion too quickly, the bowler must compensate somewhere along the way to try to return the rest of the delivery back to "normal". This rarely happens because something has changed. Something is different. It causes everything that happens in that delivery after that to be different. Remember, bowlers put the hand in the ball first. A problem here creates problems the rest of the way.

Unlike a timing problem or pushaway problem which generally only wreak havoc on a single shot and can be corrected so there is no long-term problems, an improperly fitted bowling ball can have consequences far beyond a single delivery. It can cause permanent changes in a bowler's mechanics over a long period of time that may not be able to fixed even after the equipment is fixed.

Think about this for a minute: what if you were only allowed to bowl with a 50-pound ball with every fingerhole two inches across? Would your delivery style change? Of course it would! You'd probably need to use both hands. If you did that for a year and then switched back to more normal equipment, would your game with the normal equipment be as sharp? No, because your delivery, timing, release, and swing would be practiced differently for a year. This is an extreme example, but even small problems with the fit of your equipment will cause a change in a bowler's delivery.

The most common problem I see is a thumb hole that is too large. This causes the bowler to bend the thumb and squeeze with the thumb to keep the ball from falling off the hand during the swing. If the thumb pressure is not released at the exact same time on every shot, it introduces an inconsistency in the relase of the ball. Inconsistency in release will lead to inconsistency in scoring.

If the thumb hole is too large and the ball is too heavy, it often leads to not only bending the thumb, but bending the elbow. I see this mostly in children that have been rushed into equipment that is too heavy for them. Over time, the bent elbow becomes part of their "norma" mechanics and they become adult bowlers that bowl with a bent elbow. A bent elbow leads to inconsistency because the elbow must be bent to the same degree/angle the same way ever time. It is much easier to be consistently keep the arm straight. (Very few people have the natural talent of Earl Anthony)

If pain is introduced into the equation, changes happen rapidly. Our bodies have built-in mechanisms that cause us to avoid pain. While most bowlers can tell when they have a death grip on a bowling ball, subconscious changes in mechanics due to pain avoidance may not be detected at all.

Practice makes permanent. Even when doing something improperly, if we do it often enough, the improper starts to feel "normal". Afterwards, even if the next bowling ball fits properly, the bad habits are ingrained, and better mechanics feel "wrong".

The Pro Shop Role

The fitting and drilling of a bowling ball should be done by a qualified professional. For most people, this means a bowling pro shop. This is not an area to cut corners on cost. Most pro shop technicians know what they are doing. If they say a bowler's thumb hole is too large, you can bet it is. If the technican says the span is too short, it probably is.

Evaluating a pro shop is a topic for another day, but it should at least be said here that a good pro shop technician will take the time to properly measure your finger sizes, your span, pitches, and help decide the correct weight. The process should not be glossed over, it should be a series of measurements, with questions and answers in both directions. After the ball is drilled, the technician should further fine-tune the ball to fit the bowler and have the bowler throw the ball after each change, either across the shop floor or on the lanes. A good pro shop technician is only happy when the bowler is happy.

The importance of a pro shop can not be stressed enough. There are way too many Internet resources out there that suggest one-size-fits-all techniques that are simply wrong because everyone's fingers, hands, wrists, arms, and body are different. Every bowler's equipment will be drilled and fit differently.

The Bowler's Role

Bowlers should be involved with the fitting process, taking the time to ask questions of the pro shop technician, inform the pro shop technician of any physical injuries or limitations, and discussing any changes in delivery/mechanics.

It is also up to the bowler to have equipment checked at least once per year. As we grow older, our bodies change. As we gain or lose weight, our bodies change. Any body change can result in a change the fit of bowling equipment. What fits today will probably not fit in a couple of years. If equipment is never re-checked, it will soon not fit properly.

Bowlers that use soft rubber grips should have these checked more often. Over time, these grips condense, harden, and shrink.

Most importantly, it is up to the bowler to use the equipment properly. One of the biggest misconceptions and common problems is that if a bowler has a blister on the thumb than the thumb hole must be too small. Usually, it is because the thumb hole is too big and the bowler is bending the thumb or "knuckling" the thumb to keep it from flying off. Remember that 90% statistic claimed at the beginning of this article. I'd stake that number just on thumb holes that are too big. Once the thumb hole is the correct size, the bowler must learn to relax the thumb and let gravity pull the ball off the hand at the bottom of the swing. Otherwise, the thumb hole will feel "tight" and it is off to the shop to make the thumb hole too big again.

Conclusion

Having bowling eqiupment that doesn't fit properly can cause both physical as well as performance problems. A good pro shop will ensure the equipment fits properly and the bowler must ensure that the equipment continues to fit properly. Equipment that fits increases scores and decreases the likelihood of injuries caused by bowling.

Bowl well!

Related Materials

Here are some related articles or excerpts on bowling ball fit:

http://www.jayhawkbowling.com/Pro_s_Corner/Fitting_Tips/fitting.html
Article with illustrations on problems caused by improper fit.

http://members.tripod.com/Tips_4_Tenpin/equipment/Ball_Drilling_Tape/ball_fitting.htm
Article has a couple of good points to make on proper fit.

The Bowling Kit

2009-05-13T13:07:00.003-04:00

Assembling the Bowler's Kit

Intended Audience: All Bowlers

Have you ever been bowling and said to yourself "I wish I had X" where X is anything from a clean towel to an aspirin? Have you ever borrowed tape or a piece of scissors from a fellow bowler to get through a session of bowling? If you have, you're not alone. Almost every bowler finds them self in this situation at one time or another in their bowling lifetime.

It is often better to have something and not need it than to need something and not have it. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. There are dozens of similar cliches that apply to your preparedness as a bowler.

Every bowler should have the basics: a custom-fit bowling ball, ball bag, and bowling shoes. Whether you only bowl once in awhile or you bowl every day, you may want to consider putting together some bowling accessories. The more often you bowl, the more often you will find you need something outside of the basics. The goal of this article is to provide some ideas on what accessories a "Bowler's Kit" might include and where to get those items.

The Case

Some bowling bags come with pouches, zippered compartments, and pockets for accessories. For the once-in-awhile bowler, this is often enough space to carry the needed extras. The more serious-minded bowler who bowls often or is often on the road will want to consider a separate bag or case.

Over the past 35 years, I've seen any number of containers used to hold a bowler's kit: backpacks, tackle boxes, duffel bags, luggage, fanny packs, diaper bags, coat pockets, you name it. Sure, the companies that make bowling bags and other bowling equipment have accessory bags specific to bowling, but you'll usually pay a premium price for the label and they often don't have the room you need.

I've found that camera bags - that is to say, bags specifically designed for photographers - work nicely without the extra cost. They have a large internal compartment and a host of internal and external compartments of various sizes designed for quick but secure (can be zipped/buttoned/etc closed) access. Tackle boxes also seem to work well with all of the different sealed compartments. It is a matter of preference. Whatever you decide, consider something with a shoulder strap, especially if you're a tournament bowler that crosses lanes every game or if you have a long walk from the car into the bowling center. For my readers that have been there, consider the walk through the check-in, squad room, and center isle at the National Bowling Stadium in Reno. Shoulder straps are your friends.

The Oxymoronic "Essential Extras"

Even "once-in-awhile" bowlers should consider taking these items along for a bowling session. They don't take up much room. They don't cost much. They are not hard to find. When you need them and don't have them, it can put a serious damper on your bowling fun.

Towels - The most ubiquitous of bowling accessories. Hand towel and cleaning towel. Even the most careful of us occasionally spills a drink. In a bowling center, a wet floor becomes a health hazard. Wet bowling shoes create sticky approaches that can lead to injury. A cleaning towel can sop up liquid before it drips off the table or after it reaches the floor. Hand towels are used for when hands are sweaty but not so much that a rosin bag is needed. Consider a micro-fiber towel for removing the lane conditioner/oil from your ball. They are more absorbent than a standard cotton-loom towel and can be purchased at just about any convenience store.

Nail Clippers - Bowling with a hangnail on a bowling finger is not fun. Definitely get a pair that has the metal file attached. It can be used to file down rough edges on a bowling ball or insert tape into finger holes in a pinch.

Aspirin, Acetaminophen, Ibuprofen - Other bowlers ask me for this more often than any other item. Ibuprofen is primarily an anti-inflammatory but also acts as an analgesic (painkiller).

Rosin Bag - Unless you are an exceptionally cool cat, your hands will sweat from time to time making it difficult to keep your hand in the ball. A few pats on a rosin bag will help prevent slippage and resulting blisters. Touring bowlers sometimes bowl in houses with no hand dryers on the end of the ball return or with hand dryers that are broken. Rosin helps keep hands dry when it is warm or when hands sweat from nerves. The local sports store will have cheaper models than name-brand bowling products.

Ink Pen - This must be a vital supply considering the number I've had taken from me over the years while at the lanes!

Other Considerations

Lumping supplies into groups targeted towards bowlers by skill level or experience is a poor choice. A better method is to group by interest level. Bowlers who are more fanatical about their bowling will typically have more supplies and be better prepared.

Consider the following list as supplies for the less fanatical ranging to the bowling addict.

Bowling Tape - Sometimes called "insert tape". Fingers shrink and swell as we bowl and based on things like the temperature and relative humidity of the environment. Tape can be placed into finger holes and thumb holes to create a snug fit. It is not a bad idea to have holes slightly larger than necessary so they can be adjusted with tape and the tape can be removed if fingers swell. This is one area where I purchase the name-brand bowling tape because it doesn't leave a sticky residue behind when it is removed from the ball. If you're going to use other kinds of tape, like electrical tape, be sure to also carry Rubbing Alcohol. Today, you can buy all different kinds of bowling tape of different thickness, width, and surface texture.

Scissors - If you're going to use any kind of tape, you're going to want scissors. These double as a tape insert tool and as a tape removal tool.

Rubbing Alcohol (aka Isopropyl) - Can be used for removing tape residue from finger holes and when combined with a little muscle and a towel, is the best thing for removing belt marks from a bowling ball. It is also approved by the USBC for use during competition, just in case you get a nasty belt mark on your ball.

Spare Pair of Clean Socks - Especially for those of you who enjoy wearing sandals all the time.

Shoe Covers - These have an elastic edge and slip over your bowling shoes to protect them from damage, water, gum, food, band-aids, and anything else you will find on the floor of a bowling center. Considering that you can hurt yourself with a bad slide or falling because of something on your bowling shoe, this is a great investment. Remember to take these off before bowling! Most pro-shops carry these. If anyone knows of a non-bowling supply source, such as surgical "booties", which are less expensive, please share.

Supports and Braces - If you have a medical condition that flares up when you bowl, there is no excuse not to have the necessary supporting knee/wrist/arm/back brace you need to prevent injury. I have tendinitis in both arms. It typically only bothers my bowling if I toss more than 20 games in a single day, but I keep a brace in my bag just in case I get tired before then.

Non-bowling Tape - I've had need of this from time to time to fix all sorts of different things such as holes in a bag or to wrap a brace whose Velcro has worn out to hold a broken ball cup together.

Sand Paper - Sand paper can be used in small pieces to smooth a hole or make the hole larger. It can also be used to alter the surface texture of a bowling ball. Sand paper comes in different grits. The larger the number, the smoother or finer the result when sanding. The lower the number, the quicker the change and the rougher the finish.

Slide Sock - Either fitting over your entire slide shoe or just the sole via elastic bands, these soft "socks" allow you to slide on just about anything, including those tacky synthetic approaches in 100% humidity. These tend to only be sold as bowling products so the markup is a little much for what it is. They can be a life saver when you're bowling a tournament at a center in Backwater, Nowhere that hasn't cleaned its approaches in 40 years.

Ball Cups - Hold a ball on a flat surface either just to keep it out of the way or often more importantly, to hold the ball while working on it. Most online pro shops will sell you the same kind found in pro shops for a couple of bucks. You can also use any small plastic/rubber/wood ring that's about four inches in diameter and a half-inch tall.

Scotch Brite Pads / Scrubbing Pads - Most people are familiar with these "green scrubbing pads" as used for cleaning dishes. They can also be used to alter the surface of a bowling ball. They are easier to handle and create less mess than sand paper.

Second Pair of Bowling Shoes - Accidents happen. If someone spills an entire pitcher of beer in your slide shoe (I've seen it happen) it's a great time to have your old pair of bowling shoes on hand to fill in as a sub. You do have an extra pair of clean socks in your kit too, right?

Wire Brush - A small wire brush is perfect for removing things like chewing gum from the slide sole of your bowling shoes. It will also help clean the bottom of your shoes if you're having difficulting sliding. You can get an inexpensive one from the corner store.

Ball Cleaner - If you've gotten this far down on this list, you are probably serious about taking care of your equipment. The cover of Modern reactive equipment is porous (albeit microscopically). When those pores get clogged with lane conditioner and dirt there is a loss in ball reaction. Cleaning your ball directly after each use with a mild de-greaser will help prolong the lifespan of your equipment. Which cleaner to use is often a holy debate among bowlers and probably worth its own blog post. I use a 50/50 mix of Simple Green and Rubbing Alcohol because it does a good job of cleaning, rapidly evaporates, and both ingredients are approved for use during competition by the USBC.

Superglue - When you tear a finger nail, have a finger insert pop out of your ball, separate your shoe from its sole, or rip a bleeding mess of a cut into a bowling finger, Superglue is your friend. Yes, on cuts. Most of this stuff is non-toxic. Have you needed stitches lately? Doctors are using the same sort of super-glue to hold cuts closed with surgical strips instead of using stitches. You can also use it to glue your ink pen to the table so nobody steals it! ;)

Ball Polish - Some cleaners contain polish some polishes are also cleaners. In this situation, I'm referring to anything that makes the surface of the ball smoother. You never know when you're going to walk into a tournament in a bowling center with old wooden lanes where the tournament director has decided only the first 15 feet of the lane needs to be oiled. These are generally purchased from bowling supply stores or pro shops.

Bio-Tape - This sticky, stretchy tape goes on your fingers or thumb. There are a couple of different companies making it now. It helps prevent blisters and rub spots. It is easier to put some of this tape on your thumb (and remove it as needed) than it is to be putting tape in and out of the thumb hole. It is more expensive though. This tape usually comes in different colors to signify different levels of smoothness of the tape.

Sanding Screens - These look like a window screen (the metal screen that keeps bugs out) that has been cut into small pieces. Most places that sell painting supplies also sell sanding screens. They work great for gradually smoothing or opening a finger hole.

Bevel Knife - Many of the online pro-shops carry these and every pro shop will have one. They are used for rounding off the edge of finger holes. It takes some practice to become proficient with one of these. They also make good tools for inserting tape into holes. Some online proshops sell them. Otherwise, as your local pro shop where they purchase their bevel knives.

Bowling Tool Set - These sets usually include a bevel knife, a hole opener, and a tape removal tool. The hole openers are nice in a pinch, but I rarely find myself in need to open a hole more than what can be achieved via a sanding screen (above) or sand paper will allow. Serious tinkering bowlers love these things.
http://www.buddiesproshop.com/product/1379/Hammer_Tool_Set_-_FREE_Black_Widow_Grip_Sack_with_Purchase.htm

Abralon Pads - These are used for altering the surface of the bowling ball and come in different "grits". They're easier to work with than sand paper and come in a wider variety than Scotch Brite pads. Like sand paper, the lower the number the rougher the finish and the higher the number the smoother the finish. You can buy them from most online proshops.

Conclusion

Sometimes, you need more than a ball and a pair of shoes. These items will get you started. As previously stated, I'm a "proof is in the pudding" kind of guy. The longer you bowl, the more items you'll identify as things that are good to have on hand.

Bowl well!

How to Create an Effective Practice Plan

2009-03-27T13:05:00.012-04:00

Intended Audience: Introduction - all bowlers, all bowlers serious about improving

Lag Time

It has been some time since I've posted anything and with good reason. Unfortunately, over the last couple of months I've lost my mother, a father-in-law, a brother-in-law (I like my in-laws very much), two friends, and a co-worker. So much of my time has been devoted to these things that bowling took a back seat for awhile.

I also lost a friend and coach in Rolf Gauger. In light of my recent losses, I'd like to dedicate this article to his memory. I write this not to inform others of what they missed if they did not know Rolf, but in an effort that the many good things Rolf contributed to bowling are not forgotten. There are also some great tips and tricks he shared with me later on.

Rolf passed away unexpectedly due to a heart failure stemming from a heart infection on December 30th. Rolf was one of the most respected coaches in the western United States and most known for his Triax Spare System. He's also often quoted by other top coaches for his "force-it-to-fail" method. He wrote for a number of bowling publications including the Las Vegas Ten Pin Journal, the California Bowling News, and most recently, Bowling This Month magazine where he wrote a monthly article.

Rolf was my coach for a little more than a year while I resided in Phoenix, Arizona. We would often sit and talk, usually about bowling-related topics, outside of lessons. While I never worked with Rolf exclusively, every two-three weeks he would provide invaluable feedback, strategies, and excercises that helped me improve as a bowler. He had a way of making me feel like he was genuinely happy for my success and the success of "his bowlers". He often spoke of his grandson, Bill Machin, and he would become excited when Bill bowled well. Simply put, Rolf cared about bowlers.

Not only did Rolf help me with advanced techniques, he helped bowlers of all ages and skill levels. My lessons were usually between the lessons of other bowlers at a different skill and experience level. Rolf commented to me many times that he learned from his students more than his students learned from him. He claimed that was the key to his personal development and improvement as a coach. He definitely practiced the Steve Covey habit "Seek first to understand then be understood" of highly effective people. I can't imagine a better example for other coaches of any kind to follow.

I miss you Rolf and I'm sure I'm not the only one. Rest in peace, my friend.

Planning Effective Practice

I'm often asked by fellow bowlers "How do you practice?" or "How often do you pratice" or "How do you plan your practice session?" or "What is your practice strategy?". Rolf suggested the following process which can be used by any bowler at any level. I continue to use it and feel that any bowler who is serious about his/her improvement can use it.

Step 1: Identify Areas for Improvement

Everyone has a couple of areas in which they'd like to improve. For example, a bowler may need to be more balanced at the line, have a more consistent follow-through, use a shorter push-away, or a stronger release.

In this step, identify four to six areas and prioritize them. For ease of explanation, I'll use the four areas above and assume that they're listed in order of importance. For each area, you'll want to select one (1) and only one practice technique or positive corrective focus for each area. For example:

Area: balance at the line, Focus: Slide foot in center of body
Area: consistent follow-through, Focus: arm straight to target at shoulder-level
Area: shorter push-away, Focus: Drop ball into swing
Area: stronger release, Focus: Keep hand under ball until bottom of swing

The key takeaways here are a single focus for each area of improvement and a positive corrective focus. The single focus is important for the practice plan, which will become clearer in the next couple of steps. The positive corrective focus is what actually helps a bowler improve. Notice that there are no "don't" or "stop" or "shouldn't" words here. The focus needs to be on what you want to happen, not what you don't want to happen. That's an entire separate article on its own, but for the sake of completeness here, the reader just needs to understand that your body does what the brain tells it to do. If the brain is focused on "don't stand up straight" the body tends to ignore the "don't" and stands straighter. If hunching over is the goal, it is better for the brain to think "hunch over".

Step 2: Make your practice chart

All you need is a sheet of paper and a pencil. Write down your focuses from Step 1 in order of priority one per line. Then write your top priority item again on the bottom. In our example we write:

Slide foot in center of body
Arm straight to target at shoulder-level
Drop ball into swing
Keep hand under ball until bottom of swing
Slide foot in center of body

Make a column of boxes to the right of your focuses. There should be one column for every line. In our example, that would be 5 columns for 5 lines. In the top-left empty box, write "A". In the box to the right of it, write "A". In the boxes below these, write a "B". Then proceed to fill in the rest of the boxes in the following pattern:

Step 3: Label your practice sessions

On what days will you practice? On the chart created in step 2, write "Focus" above the focuses. Above each column to the right of the focuses (with the A's and B's), add one practice day, in order from left to right for the next days you will practice. For our example, assume that our practice sessions are every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday and we will start our practice plan on January 1st. That means our practice schedule will be:

Monday, January 1st
Wednesday, January 3rd
Friday, January 5th
Monday, January 8th
Wednesday, January 10th

We would label our chart as follows:

Step 4: Putting it all together

Great, we have a chart. Now what? How do we use it? The A's in the chart represent the first half of a practice session. The B's in the chart represent the second half of a practice session. If our practice session is 60 minutes long, we end up with the following practice plan:

Monday, January 1st:

30 minutes - focus on keeping our slide foot in the center of our body
30 minutes - focus on keeping our arm straight to the target to shoulder level during our follow through

Wednesday, January 3rd:

30 minutes - focus on keeping our slide foot in the center of our body
30 minutes - focus on keeping our arm straight to the target to shoulder level during our follow through

On Friday, January 5th:

30 minutes - focus on keeping our arm straight to the target to shoulder level during our follow through
30 minutes - focus on dropping the ball into the swing

On Monday, January 8th:

30 minutes - focus on dropping the ball into the swing
30 minutes - focus on keeping the hand under the ball until it reaches the bottom of the swing

On Wednesday, January 10th:

30 minutes - focus on keeping the hand under the ball until it reaches the bottom of the swing
30 minutes - focus on keeping our slide foot in the center of our body

Step 5: Review and Revise

As other areas of improvement are identified or other/more efficent positive corrective focuses are needed, repeat steps 1-4 above on a new chart or append them to the bottom of your chart and extend the chart to the right using the same "AB" pattern.

The Why: Understanding the Methodology

This may seem like overkill, but once you've made a couple of charts, it is a quick and easy process. The reader should be asking "why does it work". There are subtle points at work when you use the method exactly as described.

Most importantly we've made a plan with clearly defined steps and a timeline. We've ensured that nothing that needs improvement will be missed and items of higher priority will be improved sooner than later.

Improvement is quicker when focusing on one thing at a time. Focus is the key to success. Did you notice that there is no mention of number of games or scores? That is intentional. The length of a game, in terms of the number of shots thrown, varies. Time on a clock does not. It is important to dedicate a set amount of time to improving if you are serious about getting better. Score does not matter in practice. I can't stress this enough. The critic may say "If you're truly improving your balance at the line your score will go up". That is true for your league and tournament bowling. If you are focused on one physical correction to the exclusion of all else, it is the quickest way to improve physical execution. Improving physical execution is the quickest way to improve your scores. During practice, if your focus is complete, you will do or not do other things that affect score. For example, lane adjustments. If you're focused on, let's say, dropping the ball into your swing, you won't be thinking about adjusting to changing lane conditions. That will make your score during practice lower, but that has no bearing on dropping the ball into your swing. If you're thinking about score, you are not practicing, you are not focused on dropping the ball into the swing. You're focused on scoring.

Division of practice sessions into explicitly timed halves decreases (overall) the time it takes to improve by reducing mental fatigue and boredom. I use 1 hour practice sessions in our example on purpose. Focusing on a single action for any length of time is hard work and mentally tiring, but hard work in practice is how a bowler gets better. For many people, it can also get boring thinking about only one thing for a period of time. Mental fatigue and boredom are counter-productive to improvement. As such, each bowler must identify his/her own "attention span" and adjust practice session length accordingly. Being able to switch focus from one item to another half-way through the practice session helps combat mental fatigue and boredom. Determine your optimum practice session time and adjust accordingly.

Practice makes permanent. We span an area of improvement across at least two practice sessions for the same reason school teachers "review" information that has already been taught: reinforcement.

We can easily measure and improve our level of commitment to improving. In our example, we identified four areas for improvement. It took a 10 days to work on improving all four using what would be an aggressive practice schedule (3 times a week) for the average bowler. This is where always drawing out the graph as described is important. How badly a bowler wants to improve, the bowler's level of commitment to improving, can be measured by the number of items on the graph and how quickly those items will be practiced. If you're serious about becomming a better bowler, consider the graph a contract with yourself for improvement and stick to your commitment.

I hope you'll find this practice plan useful. Rolf believed in and I'm definitely his disciple when it comes to a strict practice regimen.

Related Information:

Bowl.com Article on Rolf
Let's Go Bowling - story on Rolf about halfway down
Susie Minshew mentions the "Force it to Fail" method in lane adjustments
Steve Covey's 7 Habits of Highly Effective People

Why ask Why? Evaluating Internet Bowling Resources

2008-12-30T15:40:00.007-05:00

Intended Audience: All readers

The only thing worse than bad information is wrong information.

As I become more aware of the number of bowling resources available on the Internet today, I'm constantly surprised and frustrated by the amount of information available that is:

Confusing
Incomplete
Directed at the wrong audience
Incorrect - often blatantly

Disclaimer: I have not posted any links to the Internet resources discussed in this topic because my goal is not to single out any one person. Most of these people have good intentions and do what they do only to help others.

Confusing Information

Earlier today, I was watching an instructional bowling video that was published on the Internet via YouTube. On it the instructor is speaking about timing. He notes that timing is a "major thing" in bowling. This is true. However, he says it is a "major thing once you get set in your stance". He then goes on to say that it is the "timing of the ball to the approach and the swing".

Huh?

Once you're "set in your stance" you're just standing there, hopefully with nothing moving, otherwise you're not "set". There's no timing involved with one's stance.

"Approach" is not explained as the bowler's movement to the foul line or the physical area of the lane under the bowler's feet behind the foul line. It would have been better to say "footwork" or "movement to the foul line".

I would certainly hope the ball is somehow involved in the swing, since the ball moves with the hand, wrist, elbow, arm, and shoulder. How does that relate to timing, which is stated as a "major thing"? There are no clarifying remarks later in the video which gets even more confusing as it goes on.

I think coaches are great especially coaches like this one who are willing to impart their knowledge free of charge and for no reason other than helping others to become better bowlers. However, if your message is confusing, it isn't going to help anyone and you've wasted your time and potentially wasted the time of the aspiring bowler.

In defense of the author of this video, it appears that he's attempting to keep his lessons short and to the point. That's a good goal, but it leads to another problem.

Incomplete Information

On many bowling sites there is well-worn and often posted equipment advice for competing on sport conditions. To paraphrase much of the advice available:

"You want something controllable"
"Use control equipment, not league equipment."
"Don't use any skid-flip or skid-snap equipment."

Ok. Great. But why?

I seldom see the explanation of why attached. Also, if the bowler is an intermediate bowler, there are also more unanswered questions. What is control equipment? What is league equipment? What is skid-flip or skid-snap equipment? Why wouldn't I be able to control the ball I'm throwing, am I not the one throwing it?

Give a man a fish and feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and feed him for a life time.

I'll admit to being a "why person" and I understand that not everyone is like me. However, there are going to be enough "why people" reading the general Internet that it is best to include the explanation whenever possible. If one does not truly understand the why and/or can not explain the why, they shouldn't be posting any advice on that topic until they do. Teachers need to be at a higher level of understanding than their students at the beginning of the teaching process.

If the article or post or video clearly states that the article or advice is geared towards advanced bowlers who presumably know the answers to these latter questions, that's one thing. Otherwise, we have another problem.

Information Directed at the Wrong Audience

When I stop to think about it, there is a huge amount of bowling slang and technical jargon in common use today. We bowlers tend to throw that slang and jargon around without a second thought and often times without regard for our listeners. People are often afraid to ask "what do you mean by slang-term?" or in the case of Internet sites, people often aren't given the tools/options to ask the question.

Web-based bowling sites are rife with slang and advice full of terminology that means nothing to the beginning bowler. This is often true even when the advice is written "for beginners". While one may want to lump this into the "Confusing Information" category, there's a subtle difference that is important. When a group of people are using language we don't understand, it can cause us to feel like an outsider, like we don't belong. That's hardly an environment we want to create for new bowlers especially if we're trying to help them.

The same can be said for advanced concepts addressed to intermediate bowlers. Trust me, there are advanced bowlers who don't understand the concept of a PSA (preferred spin axis) and spin time, let alone the intermediate bowlers.

If we consistently speak "above" our target audience's level of knowledge, we should expect that audience to go elsewhere for the information or worse, give up seeking the information. At that point, we've once again wasted our time and our target audience's time.

Bowlers are generally not astro-physicists or rocket scientists. The business adage to write at the sixth grade level is a good idea. It virtually ensures that every audience will understand you.

But wait, there's more... I'm violating my own rules!

I apologize to my english-speaking audience residing outside of the United States and Canada. I'm not sure how the sixth grade level in the United States equates to the school systems in other countries. Roughly speaking, it is 3 school years of english after basic phonics.

Incorrect Information

As the saying goes, the way to hell is paved with good intentions.

There is much information out there on the Internet that is just incorrect, simply wrong. For example, the other day on a bowling site I saw advice on how to make a bowling ball go longer down the lane and hook harder on the back end (the part of the lane closer to the pins). The advice said to use a dull particle ball.

**buzzer** Nope, try again.

It is possible that the person offering the advice was trying to give bad advice, but for the sake of this discussion I will assume that is never the case. People who purposely give incorrect information are outside the scope of this topic.

Some people mean well but just don't know any better. People looking for help certainly don't know any better or else they wouldn't be looking for help! Unfortunately, for many information seekers, they can't distinguish between the people who mean well but don't have the correct information and the people who mean well and who do have the correct information.

I've even experienced "certified" coaches giving out incorrect information. Am I saying that I know more than they do? Most of the time, no, but I can read the USBC rule book to find out what constitutes a legal delivery. If it is at odds with the instructor, who is correct, the instructor or the governing body of bowling in the United States? At other times yes, I do know more than a "certified" coash. I have the first-hand experience that the some coaches do not have or I have the knowledge imparted to me by others who have the hands-on experience. At still other times, I have and understand the science.

As previously mentioned, it is the understanding of the why and the ability to effectively communicate the why that is so important.

Who to Believe?

Earlier I mentioned YouTube as a source of an instructional bowling video. It should be noted that just because YouTube is not a bowling site and contains many silly videos, that doesn't automatically disqualify YouTube as a source for good instructional bowling videos. Each piece of information should be evaluated based on its content, not the web site on which the content is posted.

On the flip side of that coin, just because a piece of advice or an instructional article is posted on a reputable bowling site doesn't mean that the information is clear, concise, and correct. Again, each piece of information should be evaluated based on its content. It is true that reputable sites dedicated to bowling will generally have better content, but that doesn't mean every article is a good article.

The same is true for people. Beware of evaluating advice solely on the person giving the advice. That's known as an ad hominem logic fallacy. Just because a bowler has a low average doesn't mean they don't understand bowling concepts and certainly doesn't mean that low average bowlers can't teach you anything. The reverse is also true. Just because a "big name" or a high average bowler says something is so, doesn't make it true. Ask them to explain the why in terms you can understand. If they can't do so, you can and should seek other opinions.

Moving Forward

By all means, you can and should use the comment section of this site to call me out when I violate my own rules. I'm human and make mistakes just like everyone else. I welcome the opportunity to learn and improve from you. I firmly believe that any two human beings of roughly the same age have the same amount or sum of knowledge. It is the areas of knowledge that are different. We can all learn from one another if we just take the time to do so.

How do you make a ball hook?

2008-12-11T17:16:00.005-05:00

Intended Audience: Beginner through intermediate bowlers

How do you make the ball hook/curve/spin?

This is one of the most common questions asked by novice bowlers.

As with many aspects of bowling, there isn't one correct answer. One of the best answers I've ever heard to this question is "practice, practice, practice". Ok, that's a bit smart-alecky, but it is also true. It takes some practice and patience to learn how to hook a ball correctly.

By "correctly" I mean without risk of physical injury and in a fashion that will help improve your scores.

Before discussing how to make a ball hook, let's understand a little about why a ball hooks.

Think about a front-wheel drive car driving in slick, rainy conditions. When you stomp the gas the car moves forward. You get going fast, say, 60 miles per hour (roughly 100 kilometers per hour for my international friends) When you turn the wheel sharply, what happens? Remember, we're on an extremely wet, slick road.

At first nothing is going to happen because even though the wheels are turned to the side, they can't create enough friction to "grab" the road and change the car's direction. Eventually, the tires will create enough friction or you'll slow down enough that the car will slowly (the gradually faster) begin to move in a new direction: the direction in which you've turned the tires. Eventually the tires will stop spinning/slipping and start rolling in the new direction in which you want to travel.

Bowlers who throw the ball straight usually roll it straight. The ball rolls in the same direction in which the ball is travelling. It's like when the wheels of the car are not turned.

Some bowlers who throw the ball straight do impart some spin on the tires, but not enough for the ball to create enough friction to "grab" the lane so that the ball can change direction. Or, they throw the ball too fast for the spin to create enough friction to grab the lane and change direction.

So to get a ball to hook, like getting a car to turn, we need the rotation of the ball to be in a different direction than the direction in which the ball is travelling and we need to have enough rotation on the ball to get it to create friction and "grab" the lane.

Method 1: The Suitcase Technique

One of the easiest and oldest ways to learn to throw a hook is the suitcase method. This was how my father taught me and how my father's father taught him.

Stand up. Go ahead it's ok. Let your bowling arm hang straight down at your side with your thumb touching your leg and your fingers be furthest away from your leg. Now look at the angle between the outside of your forearm and the back of your hand. Curl your wrist slightly so that the outside of your forearm and the back of your hand form a straight line/flat plain. Now imagine a heavy briefcase that you will hold with that hand, but imagine holding it with your fingers only (not connecting your fingers to thumb).

Now pick up your bowling ball, insert your hand, and duplicate the above process. If you've done it correctly, you should feel some strain in the muscles of your fingers and your forearm.

Throw a bowling ball with your hand and fingers in this position. The trick is to maintain that arm position (back of hand and forearm form a flat plain) and finger position (like holding a suitcase with fingers only) throughout your entire swing. Let go of the ball slightly in front of your ankle. Don't twist your arm or your hand. You should feel more pressure on your fingers and less on your thumb just before the ball leaves your hand. Just like holding the heavy suitcase, but only using your fingers. It is the fingers that impart the curve on the ball.

It takes a little muscle in the forearm and the fingers to impart rotation on a bowling ball.

If this isn't working for you, start again at the beginning and think of the suitcase. The suitcase should stay in the same position through your swing. If you were throwing the suitcase down the lane, the suitcase shouldn't fall over or turn sideways. Try throwing the ball half your normal speed at first. Slowing things down will help you feel what you're doing a little better. Also, if you're throwing it too fast, it may not hook until after it leaves the lane. Remember, too much speed and you run the risk of not creating enough friction for the ball to hook.

Method 2: The Football Method

Advanced bowlers will understand the suitcase method (above) but will likely be quick to point out that you can't create a large hook that way while using a "normal" ball speed. While my father and his father taught the suitcase method, the modern method of hooking a bowling ball has changed. There are a number of reasons why this is true and all of them are outside the scope of this discussion.

Another method that can be used to learn to hook the ball is the (American) football method. Henceforth, when I say "football" I'm referring to the American version which is oblong and pointed on both ends. You know, the "pigskin".

If you can pick up a football with your bowling hand and throw that football in an underhanded spiral, you can hook a bowling ball. Mind you, it isn't as easy to impart revolutions on a heavy bowling ball as it is to impart revolutions on a light piece of air-filled leather. You'll need some muscles in your wrist and forearm.

Go ahead and stand up again with your bowling arm at your side and your thumb touching your leg. If you have a football (if you don't you'll need to use your imagination) hold it in that hand with your thumb touching your leg. The nose of the football is pointed away from you. If you were standing on a bowling alley, it would be pointed at the pins. Remember this position.

Now if you pay close attention to the motions of your body when you throw a football in an underhanded spiral, you'll notice that at first you cup your wrist, meaning, you curl your wrist in towards your forarm. When you spiral the football underhand, you un-cup or collapse your wrist. That's actually the technical terminology for this type of bowling method: cup and collapse.

There are three things that make this technique difficult:
1. Bowling balls are heavier than footballs
2. The arm's natural motion in a bowling swing tends to over-rotate
3. Timing is crucial

The first is easy to understand. Put your hand in a bowling ball and try throwing it into a couch or bean-bag underhand-spiral-like the same way you do with a football.

The second challenge is to avoid over-rotation. A car's tires are limited in how much they can rotate left or right. Your wrist and arm can rotate more than your car tires. Imagine a car that allowed you to turn the wheel almost 180 degrees (so it is near pointing "backwards"). That's not much help in turning a car. The same thing is true of your arm.

Remember holding the football at your side with your thumb touching your leg. The nose of the football is pointed in front of you. When you attempt to use a normal bowling swing and throw the bowling ball in an underhanded spiral like the footbal, your hand and arm will tend to keep rotating beyond this point. Hold your bowling arm in front of you at shoulder height with your palm pointed towards the floor. Now put a football in your hand. Where is the nose of the football pointed? Now throw a spiral with the football from that position. Watch the rotation of the football when you do that. If it was a car tire instead of a footbal, which direction would it be travelling in? It would be coming right at you! We want to make the bowling ball hook, not rotate backwards.

So when using this technique, throw the underhand spiral, but don't let your arm rotate around. Keep the palm of your bowling hand pointed towards the pins. Think of throwing an underhand spiral with the football where your palm (not the back of your hand) and the belly of the footbal is pointed towards the pins. Nose towards the pins, belly towards the pins. Halfway between is the goal. I'll try to get some pictures of this to help.

Finally, timing. The quicker you can move from cup to un-cup, the faster the ball will rotate. This is true for a football as well as a bowling ball. The bowling ball must be cupped through almost the entire bowling swing. So think of waiting until the ball is almost right next to your leg, almost at the bottom of the swing, before trying to throw the spiral. If you begin the spiral too soon, you won't get any rotation on the ball. It is better to be too late. The better the timing and the quicker the uncupping motion, the more rotation.

How do the pros do it?

The pros don't use any one specific method because different lane conditions require different types and amounts of hook. That's a lesson for another day. However, all include a firm wrist, strong fingers, and good timing.

I don't know how long this link will last but the Discovery Channel show "Time Warp" did a nice piece that explains some of what is going on. Maybe more importantly, it shows in very slow, clear detail what is happening. It could be better, but it's the best video I've seen that I can share with you via the Internet.

News Story: http://www.pba.com/news/feature.asp?ID=1020
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pr5SBkoyxtk

Better Bowling from Better Answers

2008-12-03T14:36:00.004-05:00

Blog on.

Any endeavor should have a clear purpose or goal. The same is true for a blog. Otherwise, there is little to distinguish it from so much rambling. Magazines have articles related by some common theme. The same can be said for stores, with "general" stores being the exception. However, people will visit general stores to purchase a variety of goods. People don't generally use the Internet in that way. Did you catch the pun? Sorry for that.

So before continuing, what is the purpose of this blog?

Simply put: bowler education, specifically in the realm of 10-pin bowling as both a recreational activity and as a sport. A secondary goal will be to act as a sort of hoax-buster or "Snopes" for bowling.

While there are a growing number of good, informational web sites on the Internet dedicated to bowling, it is amazing how much misleading, misinformed, and at times plain wrong information those sites contain. Certainly there is no single expert (myself included) who knows all. Where possible, authoritative sources will be cited, links to authoritative sites will be included, directions for better and more information will be used.

Hopefully, an environment can be created where questions are encouraged and answered. Too often beginners are soured on bowling because the so-called experts snub them, disdain to answer beginners' questions, or treat novices as if they should already know. Worse yet are situations where the so-called experts provide answers that are inaccurate.

So enjoy the ride. Have a question? Don't be afraid to ask. I'll be glad you did. If I can't answer your question - I certainly don't know everything - I'll find someone who can.